Ok, here is a little warning-this is the LONGEST blog entry known to man. It is 9 pages as a word document, so grab some popcorn and get ready to read-a lot!!! Love you all lots!
Thursday, the ride to Tbilisi was so nice. Joanne and I left on a marshutka around 11 am from Zugdidi and got into Tbilisi close to 4:30. The bus had individual seats for everyone, so it wasn’t too cramped. The only problem is that I had to pee. I felt the urge first when we were driving through, Senaki, only about 45 minutes out of Zugdidi. I figured I could wait until our rest stop. Any time you drive across the country, the driver will stop for 30 minutes or so at a little restaurant/rest stop area to get some food and so everyone can stretch their legs. Sometimes people refrain from smoking on the bus and smoke at the rest stops only, and others smoke the whole way there in the bus with all the windows rolled up. Well, this particular driver didn’t stop halfway like normal. We passed a ton of places we could pull over and I was just getting enough courage to ask the driver to pull over on the side of the road when he finally stopped. We were about an hour outside of Tbilisi. So I had gone 3 ½ hours with the need to urinate. I guess the driver saw my face of worry and he pointed to the left. I took off running through the wet partially melted snow. The driver was trying to talk to me and ask me questions, but I was too busy bolting to the closest hole in the ground. When I was finished I came out and politely answered his questions. He was asking me if I spoke Russian, where I was from and what I was doing on my way to Tbilisi. I was really proud of myself because I was able to answer in Russian! The lessons with my family are paying off! I know very basic phrases but I was excited that I was able to effectively communicate a few lines all at once. We all loaded back in the marshutka and were in Tbilisi in no time. The sun was shining when we got into town and we decided to make a detour through the bazaar at Didube (the metro stop) to get to the elevated platform that the Didube metro is on. While walking through, we were asked if we were tourists and Jo and I replied almost in unison, “yes!” Sometimes we get a positive reaction when we say we are English teachers, sometimes we don’t and sometimes we have to sit and explain a lot about the program. In this instance, we both just wanted to move on so it was just easier to be tourists. Plus, it is fun to pretend you are something else for a while. As we were tourists walking through the bazaar, Jo bought a pair of sunglasses, and then we came to the potato section of the bazaar! Potato jokes are common since Joanne is from Ireland and we both fell over laughing when we saw so many potatoes! I got out my camera and as she posed next to maybe a thousand potatoes, the men in charge of the potatoes hopped into the picture. I knew from then on, the weekend would be awesome. We met Raughley at the metro stop and rode to a McDonalds. I do not eat McDonalds back home, but it is a nice treat when we go to Tbilisi every once in a while. The downside (other than consuming 1,000 calories in one meal) is that McDonalds is super expensive. You can get a sit down dinner for 5 lari in some places, but a meal at Mickey D’s is upwards of 10 lari!! When we had finished eating, Joanne and I went to get McFlurries inside and ran into some other volunteers from our group. We joined them for dessert and Raughley left us to go to his second job. After sitting and catching up with fellow Group 2ers, Joanne and I decided to walk to Yev’s apartment, where we were staying. Last semester, Yev lived with a host family in Zugdidi, but this semester he moved to Tbilisi and is living on his own. Jo and I had a 45 minute walk ahead of us, but we were taking it all in stride. We didn’t realize that there was an underground walk way, but instead rushed across a huge intersection where all these roads connect and turn and there are a ton of cars zooming past at one moment. We made it safely across and used our womanly instincts to figure out which way to Vake (Yev’s neighborhood). Joanne spotted a pretty wooden bridge and wanted to walk across it/take pictures. When we were up on the bridge we looked down and say two bears! We both were so surprised and then realized they were in a small fenced in area. It was starting to get dark and we couldn’t see very far, but not too far from the bears was a small cage of lions!! It was so shocking to see these animals in tiny areas in the middle of the city. We looked around and then I found a big rotunda with the words CIRCUS written in Russian and English. We got so excited that the circus was in town! I figured that this was the holding area for the animals when they were not performing, as there was no way that these animals could live in such small quarters all of the time. It was still mind blowing and we probably spent 15 minutes on the bridge trying to figure it all out. We had to get a move on though because it was quickly falling dark. The whole walk home, save a few minutes we spent worrying about the creepy man following us down a dark road, we were making plans for the circus and recalling childhood memories of the circus. I found out Joanne was afraid of clowns and I realized that I probably enjoy the circus way more than a normal 23 year old should. I just got so excited at the thought of cotton candy, horses, bear tricks, and elephants! It would also be a great entertainment and we wouldn’t have to worry about the language barrier as the circus is a universal language for FUN!
Somehow, we made it safely to Yev’s house just as it was falling completely dark. Yev had to finish some work so Joanne and I made ourselves at home and started to watch Dirty Dancing and fawn over Patrick Swayze. I also gave a nice educational session about how he is from Texas and learned to dance at his mom’s dance studio in Houston when he was growing up. (I believe a friend’s mother even went to high school with him!) Raughley showed up when we were halfway through the movie. At this point we all went about trying to find out details about the circus!! Also, I was able to Skype my lovely mother and she got to meet the three friends that were there. We also Skyped Joanne’s parents and it just so happened that they were cooking potatoes when we called! A small shock came to us when we viewed a new poll that our dear friend Ian, who lived in Martvili last semester, but has since moved to Krakow posted on Facebook. Ireland is in fact not the country with the largest consumption of potatoes, the prize goes to….Belarus!!!! We couldn’t believe that the title had been stolen from Joanne. Since Yev was born in Belarus, we immediately started calling him Mr. Potatohead and made references to it the rest of the weekend.
All within the hour of midnight, Tom moseyed in, Raughley left to go home, and Liis came over to party. Liis is our resident Estonian from Group 2 and lives in Tbilisi. I didn’t see her at all last semester, but have already hung out with her 5 or 6 times in the past two months that I have been back. The first night we were in Tbilisi and we stayed up until 5 a.m.!! I call it the curse of Liis. Whenever she is around, everyone just has such a good time with each other that no one wants to leave or go to sleep. I had my fair share of good nights in college, but I very rarely saw the sun come up, but Liis makes it happen! I am not complaining because it is always super fun, but still. I think it is an Estonian thing, along with being beautiful, blonde, and 6 feet tall.
This curse did not bode too well for me when I woke up at 9 a.m. the next morning. That morning I cleaned Yev’s kitchen and did the dishes while everyone was sleeping. Joanne and I left the house around 10:30 to meet Raughley for a full day. We started with “breakfast” that consisted of katchepuri, cake and coffee. Next we went to buy Joanne a harddrive for all her newly acquired movies and pictures. We continued walking and made our way through another lovely Tbilisi park. We discovered that Georgians love their poets, and like to sculpt them with the wind blowing their hair, jackets, hats, all sorts of things. I don’t remember how this came up, but we also had a period of 30 minutes or so where the three of us were trying to do the jump where you click your heels together (I picture a little leprechaun doing it). Joanne was terrible at first, but she slowly tapped into her Irish roots and eventually learned how. It was so fun to just be silly and carefree. We were laughing non-stop and were constantly singing, especially the theme song to Happy Days. I know that sounds random, but it is a part of the next Roli-Poli production so get excited!!! After that we went for a walk through this incredible outdoor market Raughley and I discovered my last weekend in town before Christmas. The sidewalks are lined with everything you could imagine and so much more! Some of the stuff is useful, some interesting, and some is just crap that is still fun to gawk at. There is also a section filled with paintings hanging on wire, waiting to be bought. We strolled through that area and commented on the different kinds of art. We also went to say hi to our favorite street vendor, a sweet old Svani man (Svani means he is from Svaneti, the region in Georgia where I went hiking last semester and is isolated for a quarter of the year or more due to heavy snowfall.) When Raughley and I were buying Christmas presents he was super sweet and showed us who had the best items depending on what we wanted. The three of us had spent about 30 minutes chatting and as soon as we walked up to him again, months later, he recognized us. He has the kindest blue eyes and such a gentle demeanor. We told him we weren’t buying anything today, but he still stopped and spoke with us, asked us how our time in America was, how our families were and all that jazz. It was so nice! Prime example of Georgian hospitality right there!
Our next adventure led us to a nice Populi where Raughley popped in to get Coca Light and water. We also found a little donut stand. The donuts were not big and full donuts covered in glaze or topped with sprinkles, but instead small pieces of fried dough that tasted like funnel cake and topped with powdered sugar. I also found a little lady selling popcorn made in a novelty popcorn maker and bought a whole bag. As had been on the search for evening entertainment, we decided to see if anything was being featured that evening at the Tbilisi Philharmonia hall. Unfortunately, the doors were closed and locked and all the lights were. Since there was not a marquee boasting the latest show, we deduced that nothing was currently showing at the Philharhomia. It was a beautiful day and the central placement of the Philharmonia makes it an excellent spot for people watching so we plopped down and enjoyed our time in the sun with our snacks.
After our snacks were finished, we continued on our search for information on the circus. Raughley called 3 of our Georgian friends but no one could give us an answer. Finally, Angela, a group fiver, came to our rescue by sharing the earth shattering news that the owner of the circus had died the previous year and there was a big legal issue going on, so the circus was not performing. Koba, Raughley’s upstairs neighbor told us that we had probably found the zoo. We wanted to see it all up close and personal, so the three of us trapsed all the way across town. On the way we discovered the eternal flame, lit for soldiers who have past. It was guarded by two of the worst formal guards I have ever seen. One was so fidgety and the other had the shiftiest eyes and kept turning his head to watch us. After discovering the underground walkway that was so elusive to Joanne and I the night before, we made our way to entrance of the Zoo!!!
The front entrance should have given away how shotty the whole zoo was, but we pressed on with joy in our hearts! The entrance fee was only 50 tetri so we knew that we were in for a treat. We didn’t realize just how much fun we would have. The first thing that caught our eyes as soon as we entered was a cotton candy stand or “Condy Floss” as the sign boasted. I don’t know how many times last semester I would walk past a cotton candy stand in Zugdidi with Stepa and yearn for some of the fluffy delicious treat. There was always a reason to not try it, and I was disappointed when I left last semester without enjoying the whipped sugar. I felt like it was a sign of good things to come (and reminded me of great friendships and good times from last semester!!) so we stopped and bought two. One regular flavor and one banana flavor. I don’t know how it came about, but pretty soon, all three of us were modeling cotton candy mustaches! We were having such a good ol time. We strolled through the park grounds and quickly fell upon the cages of bears, lions, and tigers Joanne and I peered down into the night before. It was one of the saddest sights I have ever seen. These huge animals were trapped in cages that were barely big enough for them to move around in. Not nearly enough room for any of the animals to run or jump, play or hunt. The first bears we came upon had learned that people give food so one started to do little tricks. It would open its mouth and then it sat back on its haunches, and expected food. When that didn’t work for it, it stood up, again opening its mouth. Raising the arms above the head was the finale and when the bear decided we weren’t going to give it anything, it fell back down onto all fours and then laid down in the mud looking rejected. Once we had seen the full array of animals the Tbilisi Zoo had to offer we wondered into the carnival section that was scattered with rides and games. Raughley and I were a bit ambitious in our thrill seeking and decided to take our chances on a ride shaped like a boat. It is the same concept as the Conquistador at Six Flags in Arlington where the boat sings back and forth, each round going higher and higher until finally you are at a 90 degree angle with the ground. Great. Fun. All that Jazz. What I didn’t think about was that the rides at Six Flags were not built during the Soviet Union and have probably been kept up with, unlike all of the rides at this zoo. Also, there were no seat belts on this ride and only a bar at the front of the seat. Usually there is a technician that checks that all these bars are properly secured, but on this ride it was every man for himself. Let me mention also that the bar was maybe a foot in front of me when I sat back on the seat. As soon as the ride started, I freaked out. I like adventures and I enjoy roller coasters and all adrenaline rushes associated with them; but when I saw that the supporting beams holding the ride in place in the ground were creaking and moving with every rock of the boat, I started to get nervous. The boat was getting higher and higher and I swear I saw the beams moving more and more. It was at the point when we were furiously falling from a 75 degree angle that I thought I might die on this ride. I could either slip right out, or the whole machine itself would just fall apart. I don’t think I have felt this uneasy on a ride since junior year in college when Delta Gamma had a date party at the Austin Rodeo. My friends and I were riding on carnival rides before the rodeo started and in one ride I sat in a little basket that flipped and rotated constantly, I thought I was going to vomit and black out all at the same time. When Raughley and I finished the ride we were hanging onto our lives and our lunches by a string. It took a few moments to regain stability in my legs and my stomach. After we had settled down, we hit up the bumper cars!! I don’t remember the last time I rode bumper cars, and I had definitely forgotten how much fun they were! It was just the three of us on the cars and we went round and round. Joanne had never experienced them before so it was fun to share that experience with her as well. When we finished the bumper cars, we were all on such a high we did not think that the day could get any better. And then, we discovered the cosmos! We saw a broken down shack of a building with a 4 or 5 Georgian teens streaming out of it. All we asked them was if it was cool and when they replied with energy that yes! Indeed it was. We made friends with the Georgian carney running the ride and he ended up letting us go two rounds for the price of one! (Each of these rides-boat, bumper cars, cosmos cost a lari a per person per ride) We sat down and saw the gate go up and door close, but all of our hopes were still high. Then the excitement began. We were in a small box of a room with two benches. Around us, a larger room/box rotated vertically, giving the appearance that we were turning upside down. The walls were painted psychedelically, thus adding to the intense motion sickness. We tried to be silly and started standing up and switching seats with each other. Then we were seeing who could stand up the longest before either falling over or falling ill to a quesy stomach. It was so ridiculous and so bad-it was hilarious! The man asked us how we liked it and when we replied that it really was just like going to the Cosmos he beamed with pride! He was trying to coerce us into having a third go, but all three of us were in pretty bad shape and I don’t think could have survived another round in outer space. Next to the Cosmos was a cheap trick game where you had to knock down all the cans. It was not rigged in any way, just old coffee cans stacked on top of each other, but it did provide the unfortunate event of a split with the last two cans. As we were leaving the park we found dinosaur rides. They were the kind that sit out side of grocery stores and when you put in a quarter they rock back and forth. Raughley hopped on the T Rex and I jumped on the triceratops (Sarah from The Land Before Time) but before we could really enjoy them or take a good photo the carney in charge came and started shouting at us.
The three of us left with uplifted spirits and smiles on our faces! We huffed it over the Ministry to pick up some books by 5. Someone suggested that we try a khinkali restaurant nearby that served up mollusk khinkali. I was not excited by that, but Joanne and Raughley were, so we found ourselves at a nice place just around the corner. Angela, Raughley’s group 5 friend who had given us the disheartening information about the circus joined us at dinner too. We proceeded to eat way too many khinkali (mine were stuffed with meat and greens and potoatoes) and laugh and talk about Cher and laugh and laugh.
The next 12 hours were filled with more drinking, dancing, laughing and friends. Friday was a great day!!!
SATURDAY!!We made our way out into the Vake area and Raughley introduced us to an amazing western style restaurant called Batonebi (translating to gentlemen). It served all the things that I didn’t think existed in Georgia! It was pricey, but well worth it! I ordered a Southern Style Fried Chicken sandwich that came complete with NON GEORGIAN cheese, bacon and mayonnaise!!! I know it sounds totally disgusting and like a heart attack waiting to happen, but besides the mayo, nothing even remotely close to the ingredients in the sandwich are readily available, at least not in Zugdidi. It also came with a side salad in vinaigrette! There was a time where I didn’t think lettuce existed in this country. My family didn’t know what it was and there wasn’t a word that it translated into in Georgian. The closes thing we could figure out was cabbage or mustard greens, so the fact that there was REAL lettuce was overwhelming. I almost started to cry I was so happy!!
After lunch, we were picked up by David, our friend who had volunteered to take us skiing. Raughley now has a second job, teaching accountants twice a week in the evenings. One of his students had invited him to go skiing, but we were coming into town, so Jo and I were invited to come along. He picked us up and we went around Tbilisi trying to find ski boots and skis that fit our feet. We also shopped around for some ski clothes. We hit the jackpot at the second hand shops. I got a ski bib, a turtleneck sweater, and a ski jacket for a grand total of 19 lari! That is about 11 USD!! HOW CRAZY IS THAT!? Sometimes I really love Georgia! That evening, Joanne, Raughley, Yev and I were on the panel for the newest group to arrive in Georgia (Group 13! Just for a reference, I am in Group 2!) Starting with Group 3, TLG has asked teachers who have been in the program for a while to come and talk to the new group and answer questions the newbies have. I was the only person on this panel who had not paneled at least once before. It was a good time. It was also funny for us to laugh at their questions and try to remember back to what we were like when we first got here. It also made me feel really old and experienced. It was strange for me to say that I had been living here for 7 months already! That night, after the panel, Joanne and I slept at Raughley’s house instead of Yev’s because we needed to get some rest and all had to be at a metro stop that is closer to Raughley’s at 8 a.m. in the morning.
Sunday
We woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed and ready to ski!! We all donned our ridiculous mis-matching, ill-fitting ski attire and hopped on the metro to met David. He said that we had to be driving away at 8 a.m. since Gudauri is a two hour drive from Tbilisi and we wanted a full day of skiing after we took care of our equipment rental. Let me remind you again that Georgians are very rarely on time. We have a little joke if someone says, “I’ll be there in 5 minutes.” We have to ask if it is 5 minutes, or a Georgian 5 minutes (which is really closer to 20 minutes.) We got to the Didube metro stop with enough time to duck in and grab some bottles of water. At 8:20 Raughley called David to see where he was and to double check if we were in the right place, he said he was on the way and would be there in 10 minutes. Well, of course, he didn’t get to us until 9. We weren’t surprised at all, but I just hoped that it wouldn’t affect anything at the ski shop since we were relying on them to have all of our sizes. During this waiting time, somehow we started talking about penguins and Joanne decided that they barked. This joke has continued to provide us with many smiles so in my opinion, it was time well wasted.
We got picked up and we were in the car and heading out of Tbilisi by 9:15. David had brought along his new stepdaughter also, so I had to sit in the middle seat in the back. It was no problem, and there was plenty of space in the car, but there was no middle seat belt, so I kept sliding back and forth across the backseat and ramming into the sleeping little girl. Joanne eventually had to lock her arm around mine and tried to serve as my anchor. It took just over an hour and a half to get to Guduari and before we even got to the city, we were overwhelmed with the beautiful scenery. Mountains sprung up and were surrounding us. They were covered with snow, and reached high above the clouds. We started snapping pictures furiously and pretty soon my camera was filled with postcard worthy pictures.
Once we got into the city we had to park and rent our equipment. Thankfully, David had called ahead and our sizes were saved for us. It took us a while, and a lot of pushing and heaving to get our boots strapped onto our feet. Finally we were all set and ready to go! Once we got outside, Joanne started to put all of our advice to use and tried to ski a little to the lift area. Unfortunately, she wasn’t quite a natural, so while Raughley had to get new skis that fit his boots David helped Jo find a ski instructor. It was only 30 lari for an hour, and we all agreed that it would be the best thing. It was only a small problem that they didn’t speak the same language and could only communicate through body language. Finally, Raughley, David, and me headed to the ski lift. Ok, so in Georgia, they don’t believe in standing in line for anything. I was a little worried about this, but I figured that with skis and snowboards and little gates separating the area, the crowd would be contained and controlled. I could not have been more wrong! It was a typical Georgian crowd, with people pushing and trying to get past but with everyone wearing long skis! I was furious and almost fell over a few times. It was such an event just to get through the gate and get to the lift, I was exhausted before we even started skiing! It was a challenge we hit every time we wanted to get on the ski lift.
David suggested that we get off at the first stop and ski down as a starter and introduction back into skiing. Neither Raughley nor I had skied in over 7 years so we told David to go ahead and ski as fast as he wanted since we would take our time. It took us so long to get down the mountain because we were A)going super slow and had a constant pizza wedge to slow down B)stopping every few feet to regain our confidence and chat about the upcoming area
I honestly can’t remember how many times I fell, but I know half were natural causes and the other half were me getting scared of going too fast and choosing to fall over. One of the natural causes was Raughley and slamming into each other. We had been skiing serpentine and weaving in and out of each other’s path, until we lost our mojo. I thought that he was going to cut in quickly to make a sharp turn and so I figured I would go around him. Well he didn’t cut, and I didn’t turn and I literally skied right into him. We hit each other and both went tumbling down the mountain. It looked like a cartoon and when we stopped rolling I realized that my knee was throbbing in pain. I thought I had heard a snap and I freaked out thinking that I had torn my ACL or something equally horrible. It took about 5 minutes before I was comfortable enough to try to stand but once I was up, everything was ok. It was achy for the rest of the day, but I was able to ski down the mountain and do another two runs after that. (Courtni looked at it and thinks I had a grade 1 tear of my MCL, nothing serious, and I think it has already started to heal itself.) After Raughley had rushed to my aid, he had the hardest time getting his skis back on. I think it took 15 minutes for him to finally kick his boot into place on his ski.
We skied down and met Joanne for a lunch of “hamburgers” and beer and heard her misadventures of having a private lesson. The instructor kept getting his snowboard too close to her skies and causing Jo to lose her balance on multiple occasions.
After lunch the three of us went to the top of the mountain and wanted to show Joanne a really fun and great run. It slowly sloped down the back of the mountain allowing for Raughley and I to go fast on straightaways and pretend that we were in a James Bond movie. After a great afternoon of skiing and me getting back into the groove of things (but still realizing that I am not cut out for skiing and one day is just enough for me) we met up with Joanne at the first lift and skied down as a trio! Joanne was a successful skier and I even have pictures showing off her victory!
The day was topped off by us being the LAST people on the mountain and then going to dinner at a great restaurant where we had our own little room full with a roaring fire!
Once we got back to Tbilisi, Jo and I had to wait for Yev and friends to make it back to his apartment so we helped Raughley grade a stack of 7th grade tests. Even that was a blast! Usually grading is annoying and it is just dumb the mistakes kids make, but with great friends, grading is an enjoyable experience that provided us with a lot of reasons to laugh. Werbs. Wowels. And Wallyball. (Ok I know that is really mean to make fun of, but it is next to impossible for Georgians to make a V sound so it always comes out w. Some of the kids even wrote w were it should be a v, and we laughed at them. Yes, we are terrible teachers and terrible people, but we laughed at 12 year old’s mistakes and it was awesome.)
The entire weekend was summed up in one word: EPIC!!!!!!!!!
Go out and find your adventure today!
This slideshow requires JavaScript.